The Lean Horse Hundred is the brain child of marathoner and race director extra ordinaire, Jerry Dunn. While running across America in the early 90's, Jerry was talking to media (and others) in a restaurant in small town Kansas, when he was approached by a very drunk hog farmer. In the course of the conversation, the farmer looked at Jerry and drawled, “A lean horse runs a long race,” and so was planted the seed which has grown and is maturing into the Lean Horse ultra races.
My husband (Tom Burr) and I first met Jerry Dunn and his wife, Elaine Doll-Dunn, when we ran the Deadwood Mickelson Trail Marathon in June, 2004. Having experienced the organization and beauty of that race, Tom decided he wanted to be part of the inaugural run of the Lean Horse ultras.
Rails to Trails
After abandonment in 1983, the former Burlington Northern Rail Line, which passes through the heart of South Dakota’s Black Hills, became the focus of a group who saw its vast potential, including then-Governor George S. Mickelson. The trail was completed in 1998, and spans a length of 114 miles from Edgemont at the southern end to Deadwood at the northern end.
The Lean Horse ultras are run almost entirely on the Mickelson Trail, consisting of crushed limestone over dirt. While the total climb for the Lean Horse Hundred course is 9,500 feet, it’s very subtle, causing runners to go out fast and continue running faster and longer than they would on hilly, single track trail. While Jerry’s web site was quick to point out that “this is not a tough course,” anyone who has run an ultra, particularly 100 miles, has learned to respect the distance. The Lean Horse starting line has an elevation of approximately 4,200 feet and rises steadily in the first eight miles. After that, much of the race is run at an elevation above 5,000 feet, with the climb near Crazy Horse Monument topping out at around 5,800 feet.
Pre-race activities
People began arriving at the Hot Springs Convention Center shortly after lunch on Friday and continued to trickle in throughout the afternoon. Around 3:00 P.M. we gathered for the pre-race meeting, following which most of us opted for the pre-race dinner which turned out to be the most outstanding pre-race meal Tom and I have ever experienced. The BBQ buffet was held at the Flat Iron Coffee Bar, a coffee house with four beautiful guest suites upstairs. The restored Hot Springs architecture combined with the serenity of the fenced courtyard garden in which the dinner was held contributed greatly to the ambiance. I heard only compliments regarding the huge bison burgers, veggie burgers, brats, beans, pasta, fresh fruit, and cookies, most certainly the best food in town. It was a comfortably warm summer night, and as we visited, the confidence barometer rose. It was an embracing start to a memorable race weekend.
“Bid me run and I will strive with things impossible.”
Shakespeare
In the pre-dawn hour of August 20, 2005, runners gathered at the Minnekahta Trailhead on the Mickelson Trail twelve miles west of Hot Springs, South Dakota, in surroundings which can best be described as a combination of Vincent Van Gogh’s paintings “Starry Night” and “Haystacks”. At 6:01 A.M., amid acres of alfalfa, with a nearly full moon still high in the western sky and the sun just peeking over the eastern horizon, 50 and 100 mile runners enthusiastically began their quests to finish yet another ultra marathon. Not far away, 50K runners began their race, thereby assuring a finish line at the Harbach Park aid station in Custer.
The starting temperature of 54 vanished quickly as the sun came up. From that moment forward, the day was clear and warmer than anticipated. In the first eight miles of the race the aid stations were approximately 2.5 miles apart. Because I stayed behind at the starting line to watch the magnificent sunrise, I didn’t even attempt to stop at the first aid station but, instead, located the Lien Shelter Aid Station at approximately 6.5 miles. In doing so, I came upon a rural mailbox along Highway 89, on which was hand painted, “LOVETTE’S, R.R. 1, Box 133C, Hot Spgs, SD” (no doubt the generous land owner who allowed the race to use this spot). Off to my right in the field was an RV, from which volunteers worked tirelessly throughout the race.
There is one stretch of the course just after Pringle (mile 16.2) where the Mickelson Trail is literally next to the highway. Other than those few miles, the remainder of the trail was more scenic and serene. The distance between stations began stretching, and by mile 22, runners needed to plan ahead for the 6.3 miles between Carroll Creek and Harbach Park, located in downtown Custer. It was during this part of the race that numerous runners began asking if anyone had extra electrolyte caps. While the lack of shade on the race course gave the runner a panoramic view of the countryside, the sun exacted its toll as the day wore on. Sunglasses and a hat are highly recommended.
Leaving the Carroll Creek Aid Station at mile 22 (where the volunteers had gone to the extra effort to mow the grass around their RV aid station) brought a welcome downhill stretch into Harbach Park at mile 28.3. Soon after Harbach Park, the course began its ascent toward the Crazy Horse Monument, one of the most inspiring views in the race but also the most difficult part of the race in terms of elevation.
The Oerville station at mile 38.7 is tucked into a curve of the Mickelson Trail which immediately progresses over one of the many trestles of the race and proceeds on to Hill City. In Hill City, the course unceremoniously dumped the runners onto the city sidewalk for approximately one-half mile. On one side was a Train Museum, on the other a residential area. While I waited for Tom, I took in the sounds of an estate auction. “Who’ll give me 50, 50, 50. . . Do I hear 100, 100, 100?” At this intersection, a volunteer assisted runners across the highway where they were once again reunited with the limestone version of the Mickelson Trail. From here, one could “smell” the turnaround of the 100 and the end of the 50 mile race. Strategically it was the perfect point at which to be motivated since this section contained almost five miles of uphill. Those 50 milers who had conserved and measured were able to pass, and we all know how much fun it is to count how many people we pass in the last 5 miles!
In order to accommodate an aid station for the 100 milers and provide a place for the Half Hundred to end, Jerry placed an aid station at High Country Ranch/Resort at mile 49. The Ranch provided a scenic backdrop and ample parking. From this point, the Half Hundred runners ran out one-half mile and turned around to finish back at the aid station. The 100 milers ran out a mile and turned around. The turn-arounds were monitored by the honor system, although a creative means of monitoring is in the plan for next year.
“I’m being followed by a moonshadow, moonshadow, moonshadow.
Did it take long to find me? I asked the faithful light.
Did it take long to find me? And are you gonna stay the night?”
Cat Stevens
Since Tom ran the Half Hundred race, my handling and interaction ended at the High Country Ranch. I spoke later with several of the Minnesota, and other 100-milers to see what reactions the night hours produced.
All of the runners with whom I spoke were united in their opinion that it was a glorious night, illuminated by a moon so bright that many of them used no flashlight, a rare occurrence. Moon shadows danced everywhere, making the experience surreal. Most found it pleasant not to have to worry about getting lost or stepping on rocks or roots in the dark. Very few runners made use of a pacer. (With respect to pacing, there are markers every mile of the Mickelson Trail, and Jerry set out race markers every five miles.)
The aid station volunteers were cheerful and generous. The instant oatmeal ranked high on the list of favorites at the night time aid stations.
Most runners commented that running by the lighted Crazy Horse Monument was spectacular.
When asked about the uphill vs. downhill aspects of the 100 mile race, many related that it didn’t feel very downhill until the final few miles of the race.
After finishing the Lean Horse Half Hundred, Tom and I had the luxury of a shower, dinner, and a good night’s sleep while our friends were still out running. We awoke early, made ourselves a stiff cup of French Press coffee, and drove out to the start/finish line at the
Minnekahta Trailhead. We arrived about 5:15 A.M., almost the exact same time we had 24 hours earlier.
“Only those who risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.”
T.S. Elliot
During the night hours, the finish line was marked by a Coleman lantern set aloft one of the fence posts. When it became apparent that the light shining in their eyes blinded the volunteers and made seeing the runners impossible, the lamp was placed on the ground in the middle of the trail. Bathed in the glow of the Coleman lamp and pre-dawn light, those of us at the finish line strained to watch for signs of runners. Camera in hand, I snapped as we welcomed each one, never knowing when it might be the one we were awaiting. At 23:56 a runner arrived. As I snapped his finishing moment, I heard Tom say, “It’s Al (Holtz).”
“Morning has broken, like the first morning. . .
Praise with elation, praise every morning
God’s recreation of the new day.”
Cat Stevens
It was now almost 6:00 A.M., and another spectacular sunrise was on its way. At 7:24 A.M., (25:24 race time) I saw a tall runner come into view, someone I recognized instantly as our friend, Kathy Weix from Duluth, Minnesota, the second place woman in the Lean Horse Hundred. Even as she removed her socks to reveal several ugly blisters, Kathy beamed, euphoric in her 100 mile finish. Of the 59 finishers in the Lean Horse Hundred, only eight were women.
Going to a race and making new friends is always exciting:
*Tom and Allen from Florida, first time 50 milers, both of whom are seasoned tri-athletes.
*Dallas Sigurdur and his wife from Winnipeg. They love Duluth, MN so much, they named their dog DULUTH. Dallas had a great day, finishing 8th overall in the 100 miler (20:33).
*Keith, age 20, from Naperville, IL, was also running his first 50 mile race. If awards had been given for tenacity, he’d have received one.
*Soren Petsch, another first time 100-miler, also from Illinois, had a great run of 21:14. Later, as we sat with him and his wife at the Awards Brunch, he looked like a veteran.
The Awards
Just as I would expect from Jerry Dunn, the awards in this race were very creative.
The belt buckle awarded to ALL Lean Horse Hundred finishers, while big enough to make a statement, is a wearable size and made of Black Hills silver and gold. (The overall winner’s buckle, both men’s and women’s, had more gold on it than those of the other finishers.)
Half Hundred and 50K finishers received beautiful key chains, also made of silver and gold, inside of which can be placed a photo or the date and one’s finishing time. In what had to be precedent-setting fashion, Jerry had a finisher’s pendant made for the Lean Horse Hundred woman winner, which in this case was Cathy Tibbitts from New Mexico. I didn’t sense any hesitation on Cathy’s part when Jerry offered her the choice between the pendant and the belt buckle.
The age group awards were unique and well-suited to the Lean Horse theme. Awards were three deep in five year age categories and consisted of authentic, old, worn horse shoes, in the center of which was a piece of leather bearing the branded Lean Horse logo, the year, and the place. They are awesome and such conversation pieces.
Save the date on your calendar
For those of you, who are thinking about this race, don’t miss out next year. The Black Hills provide the perfect backdrop for the Lean Horse ultras.
If you come, be prepared to spend a couple of days taking in the beauty of the place, including:
* Spearfish Canyon,
* Custer State Park,
* Mount Rushmore,
* Sylvan Lake,
* Harney Peak, which, at 7,242 feet is the highest point in South Dakota
and the highest point between the Rocky Mountains and the Swiss Alps.
Once you’ve completed your race, perhaps you’ll still have the strength to drag your beleaguered body over to the Evans Plunge (almost next door to the Flat Iron Coffee House), a Hot Springs original since 1890. Used by the Native Americans as a source of water and year-round bathing because of their warmth, these waters were believed to have healing qualities. Evans Plunge is still the world’s largest natural warm-water indoor swimming pool. The site was built over several small springs and one enormous warm-water spring. Inside the buildings, those springs rise up through the pebble bottom of the pool. The water flows at a rate of 5,000 gallons per minute, changing entirely every half hour. Enjoy a natural hot tub experience, followed by a very long nap.
